Rémi Sédès

Location: Coteaux d’Ancenis, Loire 
Founded: 2013
Size: 4.5 hectares
Varieties: Gamay
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Vinification: Indigenous yeasts, no filtering or fining, no sulfur additions

Rémi Sédès was born in the Jura and raised in Paris. His circuitous journey toward the life of a winemaker included a period playing accordion for a musical group called “Les Tontons Zingueurs”. His wife is from Nantes, at the western end of the Loire valley. They eventually settled just northeast of there in the Coteaux d’Ancenis, a small and often overlooked appellation primarily suited to growing Gamay.  Rémi learned about organic farming and biodiversity while working for Vincent Caillé.

He  further developed his knowledge under the tutelage of biodynamic sage Jacques Caroge, who sold Rémi his first vineyard plot – a small parcel of Gamay vines planted in the mid-90s. All farming is organic (certified), and most of the work is done by hand or with the aid of his beautiful Shire horse, Tocade. (On our last visit, Tocade had been granted maternity leave, and was sweetly mothering her young foal in a nearby pasture.)

Soils are schist and  microgranite (finely grained granite). The cool Atlantic climate allows for long fermentations without over-extraction, so that the wines maintain their freshness along with structure and acidity. The Trait Gamay spends upwards of 50 days on its skins before the fermentation is complete, and then is aged for several months in huge old oak foudres. The Noé (named for Rémi’s son) is Gamay grown in a plot with deeper, less rocky soil; it’s aged either in old oak or stainless steel, depending on the vintage. Neither wine sees any sulfur additions.